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Captain’s blog
Ringaskiddy, Republic of Ireland
Tuesday, June 30, 2009 To the Land of Fire and Ice - Day 13
 Following two days at sea we docked into Ringaskiddy, Ireland at 8.00am. Our luck appeared to have run out, the wet murky weather we arrived to was not the beautiful, clear skies we had become accustomed to in Iceland.
It was not inspiring weather to excite passengers to self explore but many passengers did take advantage of the shuttle bus to Patrick's Quay, City of Cork and the ferry service to Cobh that we operated. Fortunately, by midday when the tours dispatched the heavy rain had past and the sky was beginning to brighten, even if only slightly. The choice of excursions ranged from "Birdlife of East Cork", "Cork City and Blarney Castle", "Cork Countryside and Kinsale" and "Panoramic Cork and Jameson Distillery". Most of the passengers ventured off to Blarney Castle, some with the ambition to kiss the Blarney Stone. According to legend the stone imparts the gift of eloquence to all those who kiss it. My wife, Jenny, kissed the stone so I will report back on any lasting effects! Those not wanting to pucker up their lips explored other areas of the castle, enjoyed leisurely walks round the lake and grounds, tried their best not to over-spend in the souvenir shops and relaxed with a traditional Irish coffee. This morning Neil had gone over to be a solitary shore station on the quayside in Cobh. Ominously the pier in use was adjacent to the listed pier that the tender for 'Titanic' left from in the days when this place was Queenstown. Whilst he was stood there in the rain he felt the passengers would like cheering up, so made a few enquiries and arranged for a group of Irish dancers to come onboard before we sailed. It's a fast run over to Falmouth this evening but Neil assured me that a slight delay would be worthwhile. Sure enough, the dancers were a true delight and Jenny filmed them for her latest DVD. Everyone had a renewed spring in their step that was evident when I hosted the Farewell Cocktail Party before dinner and acknowledged the hard-working crew by announcing the employees of the month. The main event of the evening was Anthony Stuart Lloyds' second performance, accompanied by the Spirit Quartet, in which he amazed the audience with more wonderful singing. There were also a few additions to his show, including Neil on the piano for an amusing Two Ronnie's sketch and a closing tribute to Michael Jackson. Some of the Dining Room Waiters joining Anthony on stage for a rendition of "We Are The World", which is definitely an appropriate song for a cruise ship! As I write this we are in fairly heavy fog heading across Nymph Bank towards Land's End. Let's hope for better weather tomorrow on the last full day of the cruise.
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Skirting the West Coast of Ireland
Monday, June 29, 2009 To the Land of Fire and Ice - Day 12
Another day at sea with lots of activities for passengers to participate in. For those early birds a sprightly stroll round the ship in the cool air refreshed them for the day ahead. Other activities included deck games, a watercolour workshop, a napkin folding demonstration by our headwaiters and line dancing. The slight movement from the ship caused great amusement during today's line dancing when passengers found themselves trying to grapevine one direction but ended up going the other. The lecture programme included "Strange Buildings", "Frozen Lands of the Arctic", "Fish of the Sea" and a talk from the ORCA Team reviewing their sightings during the cruise and about the organisation. A relatively quiet afternoon was brought to a halt with news from the doctor that we needed to urgently evacuate a passenger to hospital. We were off the coast of the Republic of Ireland at the time and having reviewed various options it was decided to helicopter the gentleman ashore. The Irish coastguard were soon in attendance and my officers, staff and crew performed splendidly to ensure a safe transfer. The galley tour with Executive Chef, Gavin Baxter and his team proved very popular. Demonstrations of plate decorating and fruit carving were appreciated by the passengers as they also enjoyed the chocolate tea being served. Around 7.00pm the ship was surrounded by the incredible sight of 200 dolphins, estimated by the ORCA team. No matter how many years you're at sea, it is always a pleasure to witness and a memorable moment for the passengers. Tomorrow we are scheduled to dock in Ringaskiddy and unfortunately will be saying a goodbye to most of our Irish passengers, so we decided to hold a Farewell Party for them tonight. They joined us in Dublin and have been great fun to have onboard. To complete the day in the Sirocco Lounge many of the crew showed off their theatrical talents performing traditional and well-known pieces in our "Filipino Cultural Show", which concluded at the same time as Andy Murray's epic five-setter at Wimbledon. A great result all round!
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Rockall, UK Territory
Sunday, June 28, 2009 To the Land of Fire and Ice - Day 11
Yes, you read that correctly, Rockall. Admittedly not your usual cruising destination, but we like to do things a little different onboard the Spirit of Adventure. More of that later. The day began, as all Sunday's at sea do, with "Morning Worship" conducted by myself with Neil on the piano. The congregation was in grand voice and it put everyone in a good frame of mind for the rest of the day. The day continued with a wide variety of activities. Passengers had the opportunity to have a navigational bridge visit, challenge the cruise staff to deck games, energise themselves in "Fun Fitness", or become more creative in Marjorie's watercolour workshop. Presentations and seminars included learning about Balinese scalp massage, a table dressing demonstration and a shore excursions briefing on our remaining ports. For those wishing to exercise the mind, our guest lecturers discussed "Life on the Wind", "Icecaps and Glaciers" and "The Taj Mahal". We had been following a roughly south-easterly course since leaving Heimaey and Neil had come to see me about our route. Surely, I thought, there's no ship sightseeing we can do in the open North Atlantic. However, nothing seems to escape Neil and sure enough he'd come up with something. The route from Heimaey to Cork meant we sailed almost straight past Rockall. This, of course, is a famous name to all mariners from the shipping forecast, but there is an interesting history to this isolated islet. Neil had done his research and delivered his first ever lecture during the afternoon, with his chosen subject "Rockall". Tales of Greenpeace occupation, Irish claims, SAS survival and shipwrecks made this unassuming rock come to life. Just before dinner, at 7.00pm, we approached within ½-mile of Rockall with all the passengers on deck with binoculars to view the birdlife. It's amazing to think that for every one person that's stepped onto Rockall, 42 have reached the summit of Everest! After dinner Clive's choice of song "Waltzing Matilda" seemed an appropriate introduction to the Australia quiz in the Yacht Club. We have a few Australian passengers onboard with us and, being a fellow Aussie, it's great to see the number of passengers from my home increasing every year. The evening concluded with the Maestro Trio performing their fourth recital.
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Heimaey, Iceland
Saturday, June 27, 2009 To the Land of Fire and Ice - Day 10
 Our final port in Iceland, Heimaey is located on an active volcanic belt and is the only inhabited island of the fifteen Westman Islands. The 1973 eruption began without warning causing one-third of the houses to be swamped with lava and many others to be buried in ash.
Six months later most of the islanders returned to rebuild the town we see today. The volcanic activity led to changes in the harbour entrance, which now makes entering it something of a challenge, but we were swiftly alongside for a day of exploring this interesting little island.
Heimaey is home to dramatic displays of the power of nature and our excursions incorporated the unique scenery and local life. Tours included "The Island of Heimaey", "Heimaey By Boat" and "In Search of Puffins By Boat" exclusive to the RSPB group. Passengers were delighted at the magnificent sight of over a hundred puffins during "The Island of Heimaey" tour. The onboard afternoon activities started with those passengers wanting to burn off an extra calorie or two, maybe after being tempted by yesterday's desserts, attending Jenny's "Fun Fitness". The Book Club discussed "Daphne" and "The Suspicions of Mr Whicher" in the Yacht Club, later followed by the popular line dancing class where you could hear the sound of laughter more than the music! I delayed the departure by approximately 45 minutes for the local ferry to leave first, providing us with more room to manoeuvre out of the port. Our next destination is Cork, Republic of Ireland, just over two days sailing away. A pre-dinner lecture was delivered by Professor David Nichols and titled "Rocky Shores". Veteran's Day in the UK was marked by an ex-armed services personnel get-together in the Yacht Club. The evening quiz finished in time for all passengers to make their way to the Sirocco Lounge for Showtime. Tonight we enjoyed "An Enchanting Evening" with rolls-royce voice of West End and international music theatre, Anthony Stuart Lloyd. Songs performed included hits from Man of La Mancha, Porgy and Bess, South Pacific, My Fair Lady, The Sound of Music and many more. As always an excellent show from Anthony, particularly the 'Fiddler on the Roof' encore. Tonight we are headed in a roughly south-easterly direction. It'll be Tuesday when we next dock, but there may be a few sights along the way!
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Reykjavik, Iceland
Friday, June 26, 2009 To the Land of Fire and Ice - Day 9
 Throughout last night we had transited down the west coast of Iceland and this morning we were coming alongside in Reykjavik. Reykjavik translated as 'Bay of Smoke', is the nation's capital and main centre of population. The city is alive with culture and boasts a wide variety of museums and galleries, a lake and many parks and sculpture gardens.
Numerous excursions offered passengers the opportunity to experience a range of extraordinary sights in and around this area of Iceland. These included "Birds of the Golden Circle", "The Golden Circle", "Spirit Experience at the Blue Lagoon", "Panoramic Reykjavik" and "Flightseeing Adventure". I accompanied "The Golden Circle" excursion, which proved the most popular choice with our passengers. Encompassing the 'Big Three', Gullfoss (a waterfall dropping 96ft in two falls), Geysir (hissing springs) and Thingvellir National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) it definitely exceeded expectations. A truly breathtaking spectacle of outstanding landscapes and wonders of nature. Other passengers commented on how memorable the Spirit Experience tour to the Blue Lagoon was. Located in the middle of a lava field these hot, mineral-rich waters are said to have healing powers, which certainly became a great place of relaxation for our passengers. Other indulgences included the chance of a complimentary in-water massage.  I agreed we could stay slightly later than advertised in Reykjavik to facilitate having a local show onboard. For our pre-dinner enjoyment Neil had arranged for a local Icelandic Folk Group 'Sporið' (The Step) to perform a programme of traditional Icelandic dance & song in formal costume.
After dinner Heidi presented the short film "Days of Destruction", detailing the Heimaey Eruption of 1973 followed by her port briefing. We sailed from Reykjavik at 7.30pm and into a flat calm sea. This created perfect conditions for whale watching. This was evident through the recorded figures I've just been shown: 53 minke whales, five humpback whales, 30 white-beaked dolphins and two harbour porpoises. Not bad for a night's work!
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Ísafjörður, Iceland
Thursday, June 25, 2009 To the Land of Fire and Ice - Day 8
We arrived this morning into the western tip of Iceland. Ísafjörður is part of the least populated region of Iceland with just 9,600 inhabitants in an area of over 3,500 square miles. We arrived in good time and are our shore excursions were soon under way with our passengers venturing out by coach and boat. Tours included "Life and Culture", "A Trip to Vigur Island", "Birds of Vigur Island", "Glacier Fjords" and "Hesteyri Boat Trip". Other adventurous passengers set off to explore the port by foot and bicycles from the ship. Once one of Iceland's main trading ports and still the largest settlement in the Westfjords region, Ísafjörður offers visitors a local museum, gardens and plenty of history captured in the town's buildings, as little has changed since the 18th century. Those travelling further afield were able to surround themselves in the dramatic environment, home to an array of wildlife, and breathe in the fresh air while listening to the sounds of pure nature. Back onboard, Marjorie's watercolour workshop, "your choice", revisited previous demonstrations for passengers to consider. The flowers painted in her first exhibit proved a popular choice. All aboard was at 4.30pm and soon we were sailing back down the fjord and out into the open sea. Before dinner, Icelandic guide Heidi provided another beneficial port briefing, discussing our next port Reykjavik in detail and further expanding her lecture into Icelandic life. The evening show tonight featured the Maestro Trio performing works by Telemann, Dvorak and Strauss. Many passengers chose to join the ORCA group on the compass deck to observe the sea. Their dedication paid off with several sightings of minke whales and other marine life.
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Akureyri, Iceland
Wednesday, June 24, 2009 To the Land of Fire and Ice - Day 7
 It was an early start this morning as we entered Eyjafjörður, bordered on either side by a sloping wall of snow-capped mountains. We were alongside in Akureyri by 8.00am, and then joined later by a P&O ship.
Akureyri is rightly unofficially titled the "Capital of the North" by the Icelandics and the growing number of cruise ships visiting this port justifies the title. Passengers on the "Whale Watching" excursion departed first with much excitement to view the whales up close and personal. Similarly also hoping to further glimpse Iceland's wildlife was the RSPB group on their "Birds of the North" excursion.
Other tours included "Myvatn Nature Baths", "Polar Flight to Grimsey Island" and "Jewels of the North". The latter was a sightseeing tour that explored deeper into Iceland allowing passengers to appreciate the diverse landscape on offer.
A striking geothermal field full of mudpots, steam vents, sulphur deposits and fumaroles; lava labyrinth with strange formations, columns and arches; impressive waterfalls, clear blue lakes and snow covered mountains were a few of the scenic highlights.
The port agent kept her promise of ensuring blue skies and sun all day. Taking advantage of this beautiful weather passengers enjoyed several small walks during the excursion through the variable terrain.
The polar flight to Grimsey Island gave passengers the chance to walk across the Arctic Circle. This is the only location in Iceland where the Arctic Circle crosses the land. To reach Grimsey involved an exciting 20 minute flight from Akureyri in strong winds with stunning views.
They were late returning to the ship and I saw Neil chatting with the shore excursion agent on the quayside, so I blew the ship's horn to subtly imply he might like to get back onboard! Once everyone was onboard we set sail and our Icelandic Guide Heidi talked about Ísafjörður, where we will be docking early tomorrow morning.
Even after a very busy day in port passengers challenged each other in Lisa's general knowledge quiz before Craig Halliday's second and final performance in the Sirocco Lounge. Following his previous sparkling success (and that's not just referring to his swarovski outfit and violin) it was no surprise the lounge was full. Performing many ballads and his final piece from 'Gone with the Wind' passengers had the perfect end to a perfect day before retiring to bed with the Midnight Sun shining brightly just above the horizon.
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Seyðisfjörður, Iceland
Tuesday, June 23, 2009 To the Land of Fire and Ice - Day 6
 Seyðisfjörður is a long, narrow fjord, flanked by high mountains. It acts as the perfect introduction to Iceland and is conveniently located on the eastern side, the closest point to the UK.
Excursions started bright and early with passengers eager to venture out into our first Icelandic port. Options included "Skalanes", "Lagarfljot" and "Hike to Hengifoss". Many of the passengers put on their walking shoes, collected hiking sticks from the gangway, and set off to witness Hengifoss Waterfalls. The third highest waterfall in the country at nearly 400ft high and this included excursion was the perfect introduction to the spectacular natural scenery Iceland has to offer. At the start of the tour the passengers crossed the impressive Fjardarheidi mountain pass, where numerous waterfalls could be seen high up in the mountains and cascading down adjacent to the road. Snow still covered the mountainside and the hike took the passengers to the top of the mountains overlooking the magnificent gorge and across Lake Lagarfljot. The determination of some of our passengers to see the waterfalls in their full glory meant taking off their shoes and socks to wade through one of the streams to reach the top. All aboard had been set for 12.30pm, but I allowed the tours to continue a bit longer so that the passengers could take their time enjoying the views. We finally set sail about 1.30pm and headed back out to sea. On the way in this morning the ORCA team had spotted ten humpback whales and were eager to see if they were still in the same area upon our departure. An afternoon at sea gave the opportunity for the continuation of our lecture series. Further exploration of the geology of Iceland was conducted by Dr Tony Waltham as he presented his lecture "Volcanoes of Iceland". Continuing from yesterday, Dr Adrian Cooper discussed the "History of Iceland (from World War II to present)". Despite the colder weather and slight trickle of rain, passengers enjoyed the ice cream parlour on the Verandah. Today we welcomed a local guide, Heiðdís Einarsdótti onboard, who will be accompanying us throughout our time in Iceland. Heidi (as she's known to those who cannot speak the Icelandic language) hosted a port briefing in the Sirocco Lounge talking about our next port of call, Akureyri, and other aspects of Iceland life. Before dinner I hosted a cocktail party for our Free Spirited passengers. After dinner the Yacht Club came alive with our pianist Clive Carrington and in the Sirocco Lounge 'Call My Bluff' was hosted by Assistant Cruise Director Angela. Special guests on the panel included Dr Adrian Cooper, Cruise Director Neil and Nurse "Sister" Wendy. The day came to an end with the Spirit Quartet playing into the night and some passengers out on deck admiring the Icelandic Midnight Sun.
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
At Sea
Monday, June 22, 2009 To the Land of Fire and Ice - Day 5
Today we've been sailing on a north-northwesterly course, about 50 nautical miles off the Faroe Islands, towards our first Icelandic port, Seyðisfjörður. Although it's the fifth day of the cruise it was our first at sea, so there was plenty of catching up to do. The lectures kicked off with Dr Tony Waltham describing 'Geysers of Iceland'. Passengers were also invited up to the Bridge for a guided talk. The complimentary wine tasting in the Yacht Club proved understandably popular. Marjorie Bishop continued her watercolour workshops after lunch with 'Sea and Sky', before Dr Adrian Cooper presented 'History of Iceland – From Early Settlement to World War II'. With it being the first day of Wimbledon, Executive Chef Gavin offered a special strawberries and cream afternoon tea. The pre-dinner lecture was delivered by Sandra Millikin and titled 'The Architecture of Iceland'. The passengers had two options tonight for entertainment. They could choose between the Maestro Trio performing works by Vivaldi, Tchaikovsky and Massenet, or a fun Scattergories Quiz with Neil up in the Yacht Club. Jenny and I attended the latter and a great night it turned out to be. As I write this it's just turned midnight and the sky is very light with the sun just having dipped over the horizon. Maybe tomorrow we'll be into the land (or rather sea) of the Midnight Sun!
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Ullapool, Scotland
Sunday, June 21, 2009 To the Land of Fire and Ice - Day 4
Another maiden call for the Spirit of Adventure today as we arrived in Ullapool on the northwest coast of Scotland. It is only a small town of around 1,300 people but despite its size it is the largest settlement in the area and a major tourist destination. Again we had to tender today, with our tenders utilising the vacant ferry ramp, as there is no sailing between Ullapool and Stornoway on a Sunday. Once we had the gangway in place we were ready to send our passengers ashore. Options included a "Scenic Drive to Lochinver", "A Walk through Ullapool", "In Search of Eagles", "Inverewe Gardens", or "Knocken Crag". The search for eagles was particularly successful with Peter Holden enthused by what he'd seen. The town was quite busy with local folk enjoying a warm Sunday. Jenny and I joined Clive on a 25-mile ride through this beautiful undulating country and were blown away by its rugged beauty. Local church times were advertised to the passengers and some took advantage of experiencing the local traditions. All aboard was at 5.30pm and with both tenders raised we set about a northerly course towards Iceland. Shortly after sailing the ORCA team presented a talk about what they hope to see on our voyage and discussed the worthy aims of the organisation. It was an hour back on the clock this evening as we adjusted to Iceland time zone (BST-1) so Neil took advantage and hosted his Bumper Quiz in the Sirocco Lounge with Assistant Cruise Director Angela and Cruise Staff Jenny doing the scoring.
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Tobermory, Scotland
Saturday, June 20, 2009 To the Land of Fire and Ice - Day 3
Tobermory is the capital of, and only burgh, on the Isle of Mull. It is located on the north-eastern part of the island, near the northern entrance of the Sound of Mull. Its population is approximately 700 people. The town was founded as a fishing port in 1788 on a layout designed by Dumfriesshire engineer Thomas Telford. We arrived at the anchorage as scheduled in mid-morning. A morning lecture by Dr David Nichols 'A Celebration of Shellfish', had settled everyone and with the lecture complete our tenders were ready and waiting. I wasn't too happy with our initial anchorage position, as there were rocks astern in uncomfortably close proximity. So we weighed anchor and moved astern further into the small bay and anchored again to lie better at ease with the wind and tide and further from the charted dangers. Shore excursions were soon on their way, including "Birds of Mull", "Sealife Adventure", "Duart Castle" and "Torosay Castle". I am told by the passengers that many of them recognised the waterfront in Tobermory as it has been used as the location for a popular children's television series, "Balamory". Jenny and I went for a hike to a nearby lighthouse and the scenery was wonderful. Apart from losing my hat in the mud we had a great time! All aboard was for 6.00pm and after weighing anchor we set off for Ullapool. However, we had a little time in hand, so at Neil's request I took the ship south for a circumnavigation of Staffa. Dr Tony Waltham came onto the Bridge and transmitted to the passengers gathered on the outside decks about the geology of this island and Fingal's Cave. Ornithologist Peter Holden discussed the birds we could see, and Neil told us about the history of the popularisation of Fingal's Cave before playing 'The Hebridean Overture' to the outside decks. With our circumnavigation complete we headed north again and onto Ullapool. The show tonight was certainly something special. International Violinist Craig Halliday wowed the audience with his Swarovski® Crystal Electric Violin. The Spirit Quartet wore matching outfits and it certainly made for quite a spectacle!
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Dublin, Ireland
Friday, June 19, 2009 To the Land of Fire and Ice - Day 2
After only a day away from Dublin it was familiar faces all around this morning as we arrived under slightly overcast skies. Fortunately the rain of Wednesday was well and truly cleared. The passengers wasted no time in heading ashore and were soon on their way to enjoy "Birds of Wicklow", "A Walk Through Dublin's Fair City", "Dublin and the Liffey", "Dublin City and the Book of Kells", or "Helen Dillon Garden". A shuttlebus took passengers to Kildare Street, which is just a couple of blocks away from Grafton Street. The "small world" that is often apparent in this life was discovered by Cruise Director Neil as he bumped into a former beauty therapist from the Saga Ruby, Lesley Adams, whilst browsing in the famous 'Brown Thomas' store. One of the advantages of a life at sea is that you end up with a large collection of friends from all over the world. All aboard was a bit earlier than last time as we had a fair distance to cover to our next port, Tobermory. We were away by 4.00pm and Dr David Nichols presented the afternoon lecture 'The Open Ocean'. We were well into the Irish Sea again, on a northerly course, by the time of my Welcome Cocktail Party in the Sirocco Lounge. It was good to see a few familiar faces and I had an enjoyable evening hosting my table in the Dining Room. The evening concluded with the Maestro Trio performing works by Mozart and Handel.
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Liverpool, England
Thursday, June 18, 2009 To the Land of Fire and Ice - Day 1
We had sailed across the Irish Sea during the evening and around midnight the lights of Anglesey were on the horizon. It was too rough to embark the pilot off Liverpool so we called by Point Lynas and embarked the pilot at 2:00am, and then grabbed another couple of hours of sleep before we made our approach to Liverpool. There is a brand spanking new cruise ship terminal in the centre of Liverpool, which was opened last year during their Capital of Culture celebrations. However, I understand that due to EU funding limitations, the terminal is not permitted to be used for ship's doing a cruise turnaround as it might take business away from other ports. Instead we had to use the old cruise terminal at West Langston. This involved entering astern into Langston Lock on the east bank, directly opposite New Brighton with a couple of tugs in support. With this tricky manoeuvre complete we were alongside in good time to say farewell to our Gaelic Treasures passengers. One thing about cruise ships that never fails to impress is how quickly they manage to turnaround. Today was even more exceptional. Not only did we have the passengers disembarking and new passengers embarking, but we also had somewhere in the order of 150 guests come onboard for lunch. Our Director of Operations, Grant Laversuch, hosted the popular Free Spirited Luncheon. We also welcomed visitors from the World Ship Society who presented us with a plaque to mark the occasion. From 2.00pm we began embarkation and by 5.00pm we were ready to sail with all the necessary drills complete. Not surprisingly, the way out was just as awkward as the way in. The Liverpool Docks pilots guided us into Langston Lock and then, with a strong wind blowing along the river, we managed to find a gap in the traffic to swing out and turn to head out to sea. Tours and Travel Manager Lisa Gannon presented a talk on the first few ports as we made our way upstream and then after dinner Cruise Director Neil introduced his team and the lecturers who are here to enrich the cruise. On this voyage we are joined by Dr Tony Waltham (Geology), Dr Adrian Cooper (History & Geography), Sandra Millikin (Architecture), Dr David Nichols (Marine Biology), Marjorie Bishop (Watercolours), the ORCA Group (Marine Surveying) and later in the cruise Heiðdís Einarsdóttir (Icelandic Guide). We also have an exclusive RSPB group who will be having private talks and tours. This group is led by Peter Holden (Ornithologist). Tonight we are heading westwards back along the north coast of Wales. Tomorrow morning we are due into Dublin again at the start of what promises to be a great cruise to Iceland. Again, this is somewhere I haven't been before – but I don't think I'll mention that to the passengers until we've arrived there!
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Dublin, Republic of Ireland
Wednesday, June 17, 2009 Gaelic Treasures - Day 7
The ORCA team reported that yesterday evening they had seen numerous Basking Sharks just off the Irish coast, so we arrived this morning with the ORCA team already on deck observing the sea. Dublin is both the largest city and the capital city of Ireland. We were staying here until 7.30pm this evening as we have just a relatively short hop over to Liverpool tonight and then back to Dublin on Friday! The morning shore excursions gave two options; "Dublin City & the Book of Kells" or "A Walk through Dublin's Fair City". In the afternoon there was the option of visiting Helen Dillon Garden. A shuttlebus also operated to Kildare Street (just two blocks from Grafton Street) in the city centre. With no days at sea this cruise we hadn't been able to offer Bridge visits. However, we held an "Open Bridge" hour this afternoon for any passengers wanting to come up and have a look. My Second Officer, Martin Gowlett, was on hand to explain the various bits and bobs. Later in the afternoon the ORCA team gave a presentation on what they had seen this cruise and the list is quite stunning in its length. They have certainly done a thorough job and full credit to them for the effort they've put in. The reason we had stayed alongside during the early part of the evening was so that I could host my Farewell Cocktail Party before we sailed, otherwise I would have been busy with the pilot. The party was a very pleasant occasion. Although it's only been a week long cruise, a great atmosphere has already been generated and it has been an excellent way to explore Ireland. With the party over I went up to the Bridge and took her out of port and onwards across the Irish Sea. Tomorrow we'll be in Liverpool and it promises to be a busy turnaround day.
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Cobh, Republic of Ireland
Tuesday, June 16, 2009 Gaelic Treasures - Day 6
 I thought Foynes was rather picturesque, but Cobh was arguably even more charming. The first thing I learnt was that it is pronounced "Cove". My former colleague, and former Captain of Spirit of Adventure, Martin Breen, comes from round these parts but is now living in Gibraltar. The locals certainly had the same accent and humour as him!
We entered the huge natural harbour early in the morning and were alongside at the Cobh Heritage Centre berth by 9.00am. The tours were soon underway, which included "Lakes of Killarney and Muckross House", "Cork City", "Blarney Castle and The Bells of Shandon" and "Cork Countryside and Kinsale". With the passengers ashore I conducted the weekly emergency drill and then went exploring. With this ship, we are always seeking new and challenging destinations. After an early morning chat with the pilot it was felt that it might be possible for us to sail all the way up to Cork itself on future visits. Therefore I took a taxi to Cork to assess the berth there. The taxi driver was a singer and decided to demonstrate his vocal prowess for some of the journey. He presented me with his latest CD at the end of the journey and offered himself for employment on the ship. Now that's opportunism for you! The berth looked promising so we'll give it a go next cruise and see what happens. Today, June 16, is a date synonymous in Irish literary history. It was on this morning in 1904 that Leopold Bloom set out an odyssey that was to become one of the most wonderful tales of the 20th century. Of course I am referring to James Joyce's "Ulysses" which was being celebrated in Ireland today as "Bloomsday".  Quite a crowd had gathered on the quayside by 6.00pm to see us off. A colony of Beaver Scouts waved frantically and we blew the horn much to their delight. Manoeuvring off the berth was quite awkward as the wind had come round and was doing its best to push us in any direction other than the one we wanted to go.
With the skill of the two pilots and my chaps on the Bridge we managed to sail away and were soon heading back out into the open sea. The pre-dinner lecture was titled 'The Easter Rising 1916' by Canon Andrew Evans. The show tonight was the ever-popular Filipino Cultural Show, which rightly received a rousing standing ovation during the finale.
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Foynes, Republic of Ireland
Monday, June 15, 2009 Gaelic Treasures - Day 5
Foynes is a small town and major port in County Limerick in the midwest of Ireland, located at the edge of hilly land on the southern bank of the Shannon Estuary. We had entered the estuary early this morning, passing power stations, ferries and castles as we made our way upstream. The ORCA team spotted nine dolphins close to the ship as we followed the meanders of the river. Having turned the ship 180° we were alongside by 8.00am. The name Foynes didn't mean much to me, but I was fascinated when I was told about the place's long association with flying boats. Sure enough, visible from the Bridge was what appeared to be an ordinary house, but with binoculars one could see that what at first appeared to be a loft conversion was actually a viewing tower. The now disused railway station stood between the ship and the viewing tower and after walking over there, Jenny and I had a look around the very impressive Foynes Flying Boat Museum. I'd strongly recommend it if you are ever in the area. They even have some flying boat flight simulators, which provided great entertainment. A full-size mock-up of a flying boat has been assembled adjacent to the museum and it was fascinating to step inside and see what air travel around WWII was like. So much is taken for granted now, which was revolutionary and pioneering just 70 years ago.
The vast majority of our passengers went on the full-day included "Spirit Experience" excursion to Bunratty Castle. I received great reports of Irish wining, dining and entertainment. Speaking of dining, I was interested to learn that Irish Coffee was invented in Foynes as a way of warming passengers after a long flying boat flight. A complimentary one was offered to me but I had to refuse as I was driving later! All aboard was at 4.30pm and shortly afterwards we eased off the quayside. Neil provided a deck commentary on such sights as Glin Castle and Money Point Power Station as we sailed back down the Shannon. The pre-dinner lecture was delivered by Jennifer Moore and titled 'Development of Dublin'. Canon Andrew Evans hosted the book club and the show tonight featured a second performance from the marvellous Elaine Delmar. A splendid day all round!
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Galway, Republic of Ireland
Sunday, June 14, 2009 Gaelic Treasures - Day 4
 Galway is one of the few places on this cruise that I have visited before. My daughter worked in a bar here for a while when she was travelling around and I found myself thinking back to those days as we sailed into the shallow Galway bay this morning.
The bay was too shallow for us to attempt to berth so we spent the day at anchor. This transpired to be to ORCA's advantage as a bottlenose dolphin decided to spend more or less the entire evening playing around the ship. Due to the lack of a berth it is very rare that cruise ships call into Galway and the locals were delighted to see us. Our tender crews worked hard at delivering the passengers ashore safely and swiftly. Tours included "A Visit to Kylemore Abbey", "Inish Mor and The Aran Islands" and "Galway City and Countryside Farm". We had been due to sail at 6.00pm, but Neil had managed to source a local show and having assessed the situation I decided we could stay in Galway until 11.00pm. Before dinner Jennifer Moore continued her lecture programme with 'Eighteenth Century Irish Country Homes', before Canon Andrew Evans, along with his daughter Julia, conducted an Interdenominational Church Service. During dinner Neil went ashore on the tender to collect the local show and it was the first time they had performed on a ship. It was amusing that they were taking pictures of us whilst our passengers were taking pictures of them. The show was called "Mystic Force" and lived up to its name. Irish dance, live music, live A capella and audience participation were the name of the game – and everyone joined in with the spirit of the occasion. With the local show over and the dancers tendered back ashore it was time to heave up the anchor and make our way out to our next port, Foynes. It has been a wonderful day in Galway and I certainly wouldn't have predicted three years ago when I was here with my daughter that I would be returning with my cruise ship!
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Killybegs, Republic of Ireland
Saturday, June 13, 2009 Gaelic Treasures - Day 3
Killybegs is an important harbour town in County Donegal. The fishing port is the most productive in Ireland and over 60 boats may be in the harbour at any given time. Today there weren't quite that many, but there were still an impressive array of vessels. We had sailed across Donegal Bay in the morning, passing the unfortunately named Rotten Island and berthed at the port by 8.00am. The tours from here included "Belleek Pottery and Donegal Town", "A Day in Yeats Country", "Wild Donegal and Glencolmcille" and "Delightful Donegal by Waterbus".
I saw the passengers ashore on their tours and then managed to watch the remainder of the All Blacks vs France rugby match. I was stunned to see the All Blacks lose, so Jenny and I went on a bike ride to get over the shock! The day had started bright and sunny, but by the time we were due to depart (5.30pm) we had experienced a few downpours. No wonder the countryside is so lush and green! A couple of afternoon lectures occupied passengers on this wet day. Jennifer Moore presented "Irish Gardens" before Canon Andrew Evans looked into "Crossing the Pond: Emigration to the USA".
Afternoon Tea was a special "British Tea" in honour of HM The Queen's Official Birthday and a grand birthday cake had been made to celebrate the occasion by our Executive Chef, fellow Aussie, Gavin Baxter.
As we sailed from Killybegs the rain started to lash down again and I was grateful for our fully enclosed Bridge. Once we were further out into Donegal Bay the rain cleared and it was dry enough for Neil to host a lively deck party, DJ'd by cruise staff Lisa Duggan. Alternatively passengers could enjoy a classical recital in the Sirocco Lounge by the Maestro Trio. Certainly something for everyone tonight!
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Londonderry, Northern Ireland
Friday, June 12, 2009 Gaelic Treasures - Day 2
 The new slogan for Spirit of Adventure is "we get you closer". Well today certainly proved that point. Most ships visiting Londonderry have to tender at Greencastle, which is 25 miles from Londonderry, at the mouth of Lough Foyle. Fortunately we are the perfect size to be able to navigate the narrow dredged channel into Londonderry itself.
Therefore, it was an early start on the Bridge as I welcomed the charming pilot onboard. We both watched with amusement and anguish as a speedboat sped past us and then went the wrong side of a navigation buoy. Clearly the chap driving had no idea what the red or green colour of the buoys signifies. Sure enough, he came to a crunching halt very quickly. They battled on for a while and eventually radioed us to enquire how to get to Londonderry. He then wisely followed our helpful suggestion of "follow us"!
We tied up at the berth that is half occupied by a coal depot. The owners of the depot were kindly spraying the coal with water to ensure there was no dust in the air to land on our shiny white paintwork. The passengers were soon on tour, with options including "Antrim Coast & Giant's Causeway", "The Walled City of Londonderry", and "Leisurely Londonderry". A complimentary shuttle bus also ferried passengers to and from the excellent tourist information centre in the town. All aboard was at 4.30pm as we had a long transit of the Lough ahead of us. The pilot brought his wife along for the return trip as it's not too often that they have the pleasure of piloting cruise ships. We had a slight delay getting away from the wharf as one of our ropes appeared to be trapped under the ship. However, after a few tests of all the equipment it was decided that it wasn't caught on any part of the ship, and as we gently eased off the berth it came free.  Canon Andrew Evans delivered the afternoon lecture titled 'The Great Hunger 1845'. Neil came up to the Bridge and with assistance from the Pilot gave details on the sights we passed, including oyster beds and various seabirds. We were just about out of the Lough in time for me to attend my Welcome Cocktail Party in the Sirocco Lounge. My Staff Captain, Krys took over on the Bridge whilst I navigated my way through hosting my table in the main dining room.
Jenny and I then were fortunate to have the opportunity to enjoy the excellent show this evening. Jazz vocalist Elaine Delmar produced a stunning performance with accompaniment from the Spirit Quartet.
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Greenock, Scotland
Thursday, June 11, 2009 Gaelic Treasures - Day 1
G'day everyone! It's great to be back on the Spirit of Adventure. I arrived early this morning to have a handover from Captain Alistair McLundie and it was good to see him again. I am travelling with my wife, Jenny, and both of us are looking forward to the next couple of months exploring Northern Europe. Many destinations will be new to me, but perhaps I ought not to tell the passengers that! It is always good to come back to a ship and see familiar faces. The loyalty of the officers, staff and crew is certainly something that appeals to our passengers and helps to create the wonderful family atmosphere that characterises these ships. For this cruise I am joined by Staff Captain Krys Majdzinski, Chief Engineer Phil Jeavons, Hotel Director Eddy Denaeghel and Cruise Director Neil Horrocks. In a way it's welcome back to Neil too, as although he was onboard throughout the NTS charter, he was so purely in an advisory role. Speaking of the NTS charter, their people worked hard to clear the ship before our new passengers embarked and our thanks go to them for that. We commenced embarkation at 2.00pm and by 5.00pm all were onboard. I conducted the mandatory lifeboat drill and then eased the ship off the berth and out into the River Clyde. Shortly after sailing, Neil introduced the ship's staff and lecturers for this cruise.
We are delighted to be joined by Jennifer Moore who specialises in the Irish history of architecture and Canon Andrew Evans, who specialises in contemporary history. Also on this cruise we have four members of the ORCA charity who will be continuing their surveys of the sea to record any marine life. My fingers will be crossed that they manage to see some interesting creatures. On this cruise, every day is in port, so it has been challenging to find room to fit all the various activities into the programme. This evening we kicked off our lecture programme with "Irish Castles", presented by Jennifer Moore. After the lecture many of the passengers came out on deck as Neil had requested that we sail the ship past Ailsa Craig. He gave a commentary to the outside decks explaining all about the geology and history of "Paddy's Milestone" and how curling stones come from here. A flock of gannets from Ailsa Craig swooped over us as though to say farewell from Scotland as we turned west and headed out over the Irish Sea.
Captain Frank Allica, MV Spirit of Adventure
Sailing the Scottish Highlands
Wednesday, June 10, 2009 Geysers, Glaciers and Gannets - Day 14
Today was the last full day of the National Trust for Scotland charter for 2009. We had a day of scenic cruising between the Scottish highlands and islands, which I felt would be a peaceful way to end the cruise, although it didn't quite turn out that way. The morning was, like the sea conditions, pleasant and calm. Kenneth Steven gave a poetry reading 'Coming Home' which included poems about the cruise written by the passengers. Before lunch, Jim Butler presented a bagpipe lecture and demonstration. At around midday the tranquility quickly diminished. Our onboard physician, Dr Monks, informed me that one of our passengers had suddenly been taken ill and needed to be transferred to a hospital with the utmost urgency. I made the call to Stornoway Coastguard who quickly dispatched the rescue helicopter. It was quite ironic as only last cruise, whilst berthed in Tornoway, I had invited my old captain, from when I was cadet and 2nd mate with him, to the ship. He is the Watch Manager at Stornoway Coastguard, so here I was today calling for his help. The crew leapt into action and within 45 minutes the patient was up and away in the search and rescue helicopter. Expert flying by the pilot, who was in communication with the Bridge, meant that the operation was completed swiftly and safely. The pilot even took the patient's luggage separately as well!
As I write this it is the evening and I am pleased to report the patient is doing well. This afternoon there was a talk charmingly titled 'Reflections on the Cruise' with all the lecture team. I was then in attendance at the Farewell Cocktail Party and was pleasantly surprised to be presented with a kind gift from the National Trust for Scotland. The show tonight was, of course the "Final Fling Ceilidh". I am sadly leaving tomorrow and taking the long journey home of about ten miles! Captain Frank Allica will be taking over at the helm and I know I leave the ship in more than capable hands with a fine crew. It has been a pleasure to sail around my own 'back yard' and meet so many old and new friends. I wish everyone a wonderful summer and look forward to sailing with you again some time in the future.
Captain Alistair McLundie, MV Spirit of Adventure
Tórshavn, Faroe Islands
Tuesday, June 9, 2009 Geysers, Glaciers and Gannets - Day 13
We were not due into Tórshavn until lunchtime, which meant a very scenic morning for everyone as we sailed past numerous islands, which form part of the Danish colony. Bridge visits continued and for the more energetic there was a Scottish Ceilidh Dancing session.
I was in attendance on the Bridge from mid-morning onwards, as we sailed through the Islands, and was pleasantly surprised to see that we had gained a favourable push of an extra 5 knots! I was tempted to tell the passengers we were going downhill, but I stuck with the truth which is that the waters between these islands are prone to fast currents caused by the tides. We came down and round towards the approach for Tórshavn and welcomed the pilot onboard. I was pleased to see a familiar face as it was the same pilot on my previous visits to this charming town. I remember that when onboard Saga Rose, we attempted berthing in 45 knots of wind, which between us we managed. So it was good to catch up and reminisce about difficult berthing.. We were tied up alongside around midday and with an early lunch served to the passengers they were soon off on their explorations.
Tórshavn began as a Viking settlement and became a marketplace once the Vikings left. Later it grew into a thriving town, and today it is one of the smallest and most pleasant capital cities in the world. Tórshavn was formed when the Vikings from Western Norway discovered the Faroe Islands. The Vikings chose the centre of the islands as a neutral place to hold their annual gathering each summer, where they settled their quarrels, talked together and traded. This summer court and market gradually grew into a permanent trading area.
The harbour was certainly busy. A container ship was berthed astern of us, and ahead of us was HMDS Knud Rasmussen (P570) of the Royal Danish Navy. The ship is one of two specially designed to operate in the North Atlantic and entered service last year. Her tasks include fisheries inspections, search and rescue missions, sovereignty enforcement and icebreaker assignments. We could see that the ship is equipped with a helicopter deck but no hangar. Therefore they cannot carry their own helicopter, however they can refuel helicopters at sea and thus increase the helicopter range and endurance considerably.
The passengers had a variety of options to choose from this afternoon. These were; "Streymoy Sill Hike", "Hestur Island Boat Trip", "Photography Tour of the Faroes", "Kollafjordur and Saksun", "Kvivik and Sandavagur" and "Historical Museum and Kirkjubour". A shuttlebus also ran passengers back and forth from the ferry terminal and all were back onboard by 5.30pm. We sailed at 6.00pm, finally heading back towards Scotland. The pre-dinner lecture was hosted by Mairi Paton and titled 'From Dundee to Calabar – A Scottish Heroine on a Mission'. As I write this it is now the evening and for the first time in a fortnight it has finally gone dark outside. The sun set just before the evening show which tonight featured 'An evening in the company of Patricia MacMahon and John Bone'. Tomorrow we will be taking the scenic route back towards Greenock, where we are due to arrive on Thursday morning.
Captain Alistair McLundie, MV Spirit of Adventure
Seyðisfjörður, Iceland
Monday, June 8, 2009 Geysers, Glaciers and Gannets - Day 12
Seyðisfjörður is a long, narrow fjord, flanked by high mountains. At its head lies the town bearing the same name. Seyðisfjörður nestles between two 3,200ft mountains –Strandartindur and Bjólfur. In the valley above the town, the river Fjarðará cascades over 25 waterfalls down to the lagoon at the head of the fjord.
Seyðisfjörður is regarded by many as one of Iceland's most picturesque towns, not only due to its beautiful surroundings but also because nowhere else in Iceland has a community of old wooden buildings that have been preserved so well. Poet Matthías Johannessen called Seyðisfjörður a "pearl enclosed in a shell".
As we made our approaches to the Fjord, two rather large whales surfaced and then duly dove under the ship. A nice early morning surprise for us on the Bridge. Sadly at that time of the morning no other passengers were around to enjoy the sight.
We approached the berth, a ferry port for the ferry that runs from the Faeroes to Iceland and also Denmark.
We were only scheduled to be here for the morning today, so the passengers were quickly off on their excursions. The options today included "Borgarfjordur Eystri", "Lagarfljot Panorama", "Hengifoss Hiking Tour", "Hike to Skalanes", "Seyðisfjörður Scenic Walk" and "Seyðisfjörður Town Walk". With all the passengers ashore I took the opportunity of putting the crew through their paces with the weekly emergency exercise drill. We were due to sail at 2.00pm and on time we eased off the berth. Many passengers were on deck to enjoy the scenery as we said farewell to Iceland, taking some wonderful memories back with us. The early afternoon illustrated talk was given by Colleen Batey and titled 'Archaeology of the Vikings in the Faroe Islands'. Paul Anderson presented a lecture/recital called 'The Scottish Fiddle' before Paul Johnson concluded today's lecture programme with 'Conservation in Action'.
The evening concert was a wonderful mixture of Scottish music called 'Pipes, Flutes & Strings' with the Rhona MacKay Trio and piper Jim Butler. We are making good speed tonight as we head in a southeasterly direction for the Faroe Islands.
Captain Alistair McLundie, MV Spirit of Adventure
Akureyri, Iceland
Sunday, June 7, 2009 Geysers, Glaciers and Gannets - Day 11
Akureyri, "the field upon the shoreline", lies at the base of Eyjafjörður, bordered on either side by a sloping wall of snow-capped mountains. Often called the capital of North Iceland, Akureyri has been a major trading post for centuries and has grown to become Iceland's largest regional town and the administrative, commercial and cultural centre of the north. Having remained alongside overnight the tours were off early this morning. Trips included "Whale Watching", "Jewels of the North", "Bird Watching around Lake Myvatn", "Myvatn Nature Baths", "Grimsey Island" and "Archaeological Field Trip – Gasir". Those on the whale watching excursion reported seeing a number of different species and the visit to Akureyri was a success all round. Everyone was back aboard by 3.00pm and shortly afterwards we let go of the lines and headed north, back up the fjord towards the open sea. A Viennese tea was served in the Dining Room before Rev Professor Andrew McGowan conducted the Sunday service in the Sirocco Lounge. The pre-dinner lecture was given by Colleen Batey and titled 'Recent Excavations in Northern Iceland: A Multi Disciplinary Approach'. The show tonight was called 'The Swing and the Fiddle', performed by Ocean's Two and Paul Anderson.
Captain Alistair McLundie, MV Spirit of Adventure
Siglufjörður and Akureyri, Iceland
Saturday, June 6, 2009 Geysers, Glaciers and Gannets - Day 10
 Siglufjörður is the northernmost town in Iceland, located at the foot of towering mountains on the shore of a small fjord of the same name. Fishing and the processing of marine products provide the principal source of employment for the town's 1,600 residents. For a long time, Siglufjörður was the capital of the herring fishery in the North Atlantic.
Most ships bypass Siglufjörður in their haste to reach Akureyri, but the National Trust for Scotland and Spirit of Adventure philosophy is that we like to give these smaller and less well-known destinations a chance to shine. Often we find that places that do not feature regular on the cruising map offer a far more generous and genuine welcome, as they are truly delighted to see us. This morning proved to be just such an occasion. Once we had arrived a representative from Siglufjörður came onboard and addressed the passengers about the tour they were all embarking on, which was appropriately titled 'The Herring Experience'. This was a tour that had been put together by the townsfolk especially for our visit. The cost per person was just £15 (which is incredibly cheap by Iceland standards!) and included entrance to the town's three wonderful museums that form Iceland's largest maritime museum. There was even a musical show recreating the town's past and a "taste of Iceland".
In Iceland, their equivalent of the RNLI maintain a fleet of ex RNLI Arun class lifeboats and as an avid fan of all things to do with the RNLI, I was pleased to see that they used it to bring the pilot to us. I asked if I could look around, and their hospitality was such that they invited me to take it for a spin up the fjord. For me, this was a boyhood dream, so I duly took the ship up the Fjord, with the twin 500 hp engines pushing the boat along at over 17 knots. I then brought it back alongside, what a great experience. I couldn't thank them enough and gave them a ships plaque. I hear the readers saying, 'boys and their toys', and they are absolutely right! We set sail from Siglufjörður at 1.00pm and headed south towards Akureyri.
As we sailed, my new found friends, the crew of the lifeboat sped around us close by, giving the passengers a look at what these boats can do. I said farewell by giving three long blasts on the ships whistle and sailed to our next port.  During our transit down the fjord, Patricia MacMahon presented a lecture/recital titled 'Singing Raises Up and Fortifies The Spirit'. Shortly before we arrived at Akureyri, Paul Johnson gave an illustrated talk titled 'Birds of Iceland'.
We were berthed alongside in Akureyri by 6.00pm and will remain here overnight, with passengers going on tour tomorrow. The reason for coming in this evening was to enable the evening local show to take place. The passengers were treated to a performance by the Glerá Church Choir from Akureyri.
As I write this we are berthed in the shelter of Akureyri with round-the-clock daylight and still waters creating beautiful reflections of the picturesque landscape. Marvellous!
Captain Alistair McLundie, MV Spirit of Adventure
Ísafjörður, Iceland
Friday, June 5, 2009 Geysers, Glaciers and Gannets - Day 9
 The Westfjords is Iceland's least populated region, with just 9,600 inhabitants in an area of over 3,500 square miles. Ísafjörður is the main town of the peninsula. It was formerly one of Iceland's most important trading posts and was granted municipal status in 1786. The town is still predominantly a fishing centre, but a vibrant cultural and artistic scene flourishes in the town as well. Mountains surround Ísafjörður on three sides with the sea on the fourth.
We arrived this morning to overcast skies, including a few wisps of cloud half way up the mountainside. Somehow that always makes the scene seem more authentic. The passengers were soon off on their tours, including "Vigur Island Boat Trip", "Life & Culture in Ísafjörður", "Sea Angling" and "Glacier Fjords Boat Trip". The town was indeed rather charming with the usual colourful Icelandic houses and shops. The air temperature was distinctly cooler than on the south coast, but that is to be expected in these parts. All aboard was at 4.30pm as we prepared to sail to Siglufjörður. Before dinner, Cruise Leader, Professor Geoffrey Boulton presented his talk 'Land of Fire and Ice: The Ice'. During the dinner the passengers could enjoy tasting the cod, which we'd caught yesterday. I was concerned there might not be enough to meet demand, but then it was pointed out to me that a Captain should be powerful enough to be able to feed his passengers and crew with just five fish!
During the evening we crept over the Arctic Circle. Many passengers were out on deck trying to spot the dashed line that runs round the earth at this latitude. Soon everyone was gathered in the Sirocco Lounge to enjoy a 'Traditional Scottish Ceilidh Night with Dancing', led by Robert Lovie. A marvellous way to conclude the day.
Captain Alistair McLundie, MV Spirit of Adventure
Grundarfjörður, Iceland
Thursday, June 4, 2009 Geysers, Glaciers and Gannets - Day 8
 The village of Grundarfjörður is situated in the fjord of the same name, surrounded by imposing mountains. On the western side of Grundarfjörður stands Mount Kirkjufe ll, forming a small peninsula and sheltering the town from western winds. The town's harbour is considered one of the best natural harbours on the peninsula and the main source of income is from fishing.
It was into this natural harbour that I guided the Spirit of Adventure this morning. The passengers were soon on their way to enjoy the stunning surroundings with shore excursions including a full-day tour of Snaefellsnes Peninsula, "Western Snaefellsnes", "Breidafjordur Boat Tour" and horse riding.
The pilot had informed me as we arrived that the area was superb for cod fishing, so with a licence granted by our local agent, I took our zodiac out onto the water. The Chief Engineer, Phil Jeavons and Executive Chef, George Streeter, came along and joined me as we set about testing the pilot's knowledge. George had kindly organised a nice pack lunch for us all with hot chocolate (I knew it was a good reason to bring him along!) George is actually a very good fisherman so his assistance was greatly appreciated. We sailed into the middle of the Fjord to try a test cast, and couldn't believe our luck. Time after time, cast after cast, we landed large, clean cod, unbelievable!
We ended up catching about 100kg of cod so I was glad we had local permission, as I didn't wish to break any quota! We caught enough cod to be able to feed the passengers at dinner tomorrow night! It is times like that when the joys of doing the job I do really come to fruition. It was also good to share some time with my colleagues.
We were sailing from Grundarfjörður at 6.00pm and as we sailed the Rhona MacKay Trio gave a talk and demonstration in the Sirocco Lounge. The evening concert was titled 'Have a Laugh with George'. Just as I was beginning to think that my Executive Chef had decided on a late career change, it transpired to be the National Trust for Scotland's all-round entertainer George Donald. A wonderful way to end a fabulous day!
Captain Alistair McLundie, MV Spirit of Adventure
Reykjavik, Iceland
Wednesday, June 3, 2009 Geysers, Glaciers and Gannets - Day 7
 Reykjavik is Iceland's capital and its main centre of population. The entire population of this island nation is around 300,000 and over half of them live here. The Spirit of Adventure often has an interesting time in Reykjavik and today proved to be no exception.
We were docked alongside the berth by 8.00am and the passengers were soon ready to take advantage of the plethora of shore excursions available. These included "Krysuvik and Blue Lagoon", "Birdwatchers' Delight", "The Golden Circle", "Ice & Fire: A Flightseeing Adventure", "Supertruck Adventure", "Geological Field Trip: How Volcanoes Work", "Bathing in the Blue Lagoon" and "Viking Museums". Certainly something there to suit all tastes!
We were staying in port until late this evening and this gave the opportunity for a couple of extra features to the programme. Before dinner, Sveinn Runólfsson, Director of the Icelandic Soil Conservation Service, delivered a talk titled 'Soil Conservation in Iceland: Restoration of Lost Resources'. This was followed after dinner by a wonderful performance from the Icelandic folk group 'Sporið'.
At 11.00pm we let go of the lines and continued on our clockwise circumnavigation of Iceland.
Captain Alistair McLundie, MV Spirit of Adventure
Heimaey, Iceland
Tuesday, June 2, 2009 Geysers, Glaciers and Gannets - Day 6
 Located on an active volcanic belt off Iceland's south coast, the fifteen Westman Islands have been home to dramatic displays of the power of nature in recent times. Only one of the islands, Heimaey, is inhabited. It was here in 1973 that an eruption began without warning by the side of Mount Helgafell on the outskirts of the town. One-third of the houses were swamped by boiling lava and most of the rest were buried in ash.
Miraculously, the fishing fleet were in port and able to evacuate the whole population to the mainland without loss of life. However, it did change the coastline drastically and has made the entrance to Heimaey one that is not for the faint-hearted. On arrival the wind was blowing over 30 knots and in order to negotiate this very narrow channel, I would need all concentration and co-operation from the pilot and tug boat. We picked the pilot up and we "trod water" shall we say. I had minimum ahead power to stem the wind whilst I talked to the pilot. We discussed the arrival and channel and I explained about the drift factor on a ship of this size and speeds etc that could be achieved. It took a little longer as I didn't wish to make my approach until I had all avenues covered, plus contingency plans. We sailed in, counteracting the wind and at times it probably looked as though we were going to head straight into the rocks but we do this so that the ship drifts down and by the time you reach the rocks, you have drifted into mid channel where you want to be. There we were sheltered briefly by the sheer rocks, so we reorganised and settled things, in readiness for the next part. Once we cleared the rocks, we would again feel the full foce of the wind, which we did, but we managed to negotiate what looked like a chicane, and we were soon alongside in this quaint fishing harbour.
They always say airline pilots earn their money with difficult landings and it's the same for this job, I felt I had earned my money this morning!
Excursions were soon under way and they included an island tour, a walking tour and a circumnavigation tour. There was plenty to see in the town, including a relatively new attraction labelled "The Pompeii of the North". With the passengers ashore I ran a training exercise with some of the crew and then by 4.30pm all were back onboard.
I discussed the departure with the pilot and due to the confines of the harbour and the wind blowing strong from the west, it was decided that sailing astern out of the harbour was more beneficial with the tug controlling the stern and the bowthruster controlling the bow. We reversed all the way back through the narrows with everyone but myself having the chance to admire the stunning scenery.  We had left slightly earlier than usual as we wanted to do a circumnavigation of the island of Surtsey. Many of you reading this blog will remember Surtsey appearing from the deep in a blaze of volcanic eruption, eventually breaking through the surface on 14 November 1963.
However, more drama was to happen as we sailed across towards Surtsey. One of my quartermasters on the Bridge, with particularly keen eyes, spotted some orca in the distance. I decided to take the ship over to near where they were and to the delight of the gathered passengers the orcas swam towards us and then under the ship. We were fortunate last year to see a group of orcas in the waters off Muckle Flugga in the Shetland Islands, but this was an even closer encounter. We circled for a while to see if we could spot them again before continuing on our way to Surtsey.
Colleen Batey delivered a lecture titled 'Viking Iceland: Stepping Stone Across the Atlantic' and the NTS experts gave a deck commentary about Surtsey. The show tonight featured a star-studded line up as we enjoyed "A Celebration of Robert Burns and the Year of Homecoming".
Captain Alistair McLundie, MV Spirit of Adventure
Djúpivogur, Iceland
Monday, June 1, 2009 Geysers, Glaciers and Gannets - Day 5
 Although the south-eastern corner of Iceland was probably the first area reached by the earliest settlers, it was until recently one of the remotest parts of the country. The Ring Road, the main highway road around the whole of Iceland, was completed in 1973 and linked this area to the rest of the country.
The village of Djúpivogur is located on the Búlandsnes peninsula and lies in a region of great natural beauty, half hidden among rocks and crags. The towering basalt Mountain Búlandstindur stands at a height of 3,500ft and dominates the landscape. It is considered one of the most beautiful mountains of Iceland and is the symbol of Djúpivogur. The mountain is pyramid shaped and is believed by some to be the source of cosmic power.
The area can be prone to fog and on occasion we have had to pick our way through rocks to get to the anchorage. Thankfully this morning, it was glorious. Not a cloud in the sky, a deep blue colour against the sharp, rugged snowcapped mountains of Iceland. It was breathtaking, as even though I see this view very often, it never fails to amaze me.
The shore excursions were soon on their way with some great adventures. The tours included "Vatnajokull Glacier Adventure", "Glacier Lagoon Cruise", "Papey Island", "Geological Field Trip: How Glaciers Work" and "Djúpivogur Bird Walk". The glacier adventure included snowmobiles and all sorts of fun and games! The weather was delightful and the snow-capped mountains dominated the skyline.
All aboard was at 6.00pm and for the rest of the week we will always be within sight of the coastline. Kenneth Steven hosted the pre-dinner talk 'Celts and Christianity' and the show tonight was titled 'Fiddle Strings and Accordion Buttons', with two of Scotland's finest players – Paul Anderson and John Bone.
Tonight, as I write this, the sky is still light and will remain so for a week now. The sun just about sets, but in a couple of days we will be entering the land of the midnight sun.
Captain Alistair McLundie, MV Spirit of Adventure
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